Over-the-top and unforgettable - Suvretta House, St. Moritz
“St. Moritz - as good & posh as it can get”
Ski holidays are always great. Especially when international travel is limited, Europeans have still quite a selection when it comes to ski resorts. There is the magical Trois Vallées in France, Arlberg in Austria, Alta Badia in Italy, and St Moritz in Switzerland. There isn't a second town in the world with such a high amount of luxury hotels on such a small surface. If you want to make sure your stay is as great as it can get, you book a room at one of the three grand ladies – the Palace, the Kulm or the Suvretta! While they say the Kulm is too outdated, the Palace is overly posh, Suvretta House is the real winner - ideal for all those seeking a luxury holiday away from the hustle and bustle of the old town. Showing off doesn't work here, in fact, discretion is the tone up here in what can be described as St. Moritz poshest residential area. Somewhere between the most expensive real estate in the world and Swiss best ski slopes lies a grand hotel that couldn't be situated any more glamorous.
On this January weekend, I was in for a special treat. Pulling up the driveway in the actual high season of St Moritz always feels like pulling up for a red carpet event. Lots of bellmen are rushing around your car, ladies in long fur coats are waiting for their Rolls Royce to be dropped off and occasional skiers in Moncler from head-to-toe waiting for their shuttle to the Corviglia cable car. When they start unpacking your vehicle, you're surrounded by a decent feeling. One that lets you feel that you actually made it – being able to stay at one of the top three hotels in one of the most expensive ski towns in the world. Being accompanied to the front desk and sighting how the bellman discretely tells the front desk attendant your last names, indicates that you just started what can become a truly unforgettable journey. You immediately feel how professional the staff is, it also gives the feeling of being a welcomed guest, and they actually waited for you to come. Luxury is personal, so no wonder the General Managers (a couple that is even married and managing the hotel together, a rare sight these days) take the opportunity to welcome each guest personally.
Minutes later, we were accompanied through the royal lobby towards the elevators. Our Junior Suite was located on the fifth floor, and thanks to the attic, it felt a bit cosier. With 50 to 55 square meters, these south-facing suites come with an impressive view of Lake Silvaplana. On both nights we could enjoy a picture-perfect sunset over the lake, and then during the night, we had the chance for the best stargazing. Sleeping with open windows and fresh air is a luxury that is hard to find in today's luxury hotels – hello skyscraper hotels in Asia – so sleeping at our suite at Suvretta House was a real pleasure. In general, the whole suite had a very airy layout and came with a comfy double bed, a sofa, and two armchairs with a table. A lovely handwritten note came along with fresh fruits, a local cake and some Swiss chocolate. There are two walk-in wardrobes, which are highly appreciated since the primary purpose of the stay was a ski holiday and of course, comes with ski outfits and more classy hotel outfits.
In addition to the spacious wardrobes and bedroom area, the Junior Suite came with a long bathroom offering double vanities, a bathtub, walk-in shower and separate toilet with a view over the lake as well. Next to the room's flawless cleanliness, I highly appreciated the oversized towels, not even mentioning some of my favourite hotel toiletries by British-jewelry brand Asprey – a classic usually provided at The Ritz-Carlton. Both, the general housekeeping service and the daily turndown service were outstanding as usual in Swiss Grand Hotels. Due to the fantastic dining outlets within the hotel, we didn't use the Room Service. After ice skating on the St. Moritz lake, I decided to check out the hotel's spa. While having a very classy touch that fits the hotel's overall feeling, the spa and pool are definitely the next parts of the hotel that need a refresh. I found the pool to be a bit too chilly for what should be relaxing after an ice-cold day on the slopes of Corviglia. Fortunately, there is also a heated outdoor jacuzzi – note that it can get quite busy, especially since many guests don't appreciate the cold pool indoors.
Right after check-in on Friday, we were having lunch on the terrace of Suvretta Stube. Just like one would expect from a posh St Moritz lunch, we were served foie gras and then an Atlantic sea bass in a salt crust – gosh that was one of the best fish dishes in the mountains I have ever had. Perhaps the supply of daily fresh fish in the middle of the alps is what makes St Moritz standout. Later, on the first evening, we had the great pleasure to dine at the Grand Restaurant. While elderly gentlemen are required to wear a dark suit with tie, younger gentlemen (where we casually allocated ourselves) just need to wear a jacket and a tie. To be honest, this dinner has been a real highlight of the year. Not only the bill was an unforgettable memory, but also the dishes were mouth-watering. Even though we went for the classics such as tartar of beef prepared at the table, taglierini with fresh truffles being shoved right in front of us or the stunning Côte de boeuf with all its delicious side dishes – this dinner will always stay in our mind. It's one of these moments you can even tell your grandchildren one day.
From dinner checks as high as other people's monthly salary to slowly working vintage cable cars indeed is a gap. After the sumptuous (early) breakfast, where they casually serve Bollinger champagne along with the best ham and cheese cuts, we directly headed to the vast ski room. From there we changed into the ski outfits and could walk directly to the ski lift from the hotel's main entrance. Thanks to the proximity to Randolins cable car, Suvretta House is the only luxury hotel in St Moritz that has direct access to the slopes, making it even more suitable for ski fans. During the three-day stay, we also checked out the hotel'S outside dining, including the Chasellas restaurant and the mountain restaurant Trutz on the slopes of Corviglia. They both were as outstanding as the Grand Restaurant and Suvretta Stube, showing that the entire hotel gastronomy is done exceptionally well. Let's conclude this unique review by saying that even though the prices are incredibly high, Suvretta House really delivers a service that goes above and beyond. When booking a room at this St Moritz luxury hotel, think of paying for an unforgettable memory rather than a classic hotel stay. I can just say - I am still impressed by this hotel when writing these lines, almost a year later.
