Hotel Cala di Volpe, Costa Smeralda – Iconic but Underwhelming
There aren’t many hotels on the planet that enjoy a reputation as legendary as Cala di Volpe. The birthplace of Costa Smeralda, this is where Prince Aga Khan first set foot on Sardinia and decided to begin his successful transformation of a handful of fishermen’s houses into one of the world’s most famous playgrounds for the international jet set. Long before Porto Cervo became famous, Cala di Volpe was already an institution from the moment it opened in 1963. Then came the iconic film scene from the James Bond movie The Spy Who Loved Me in 1977, starring Roger Moore, another milestone in the hotel’s history that finally put it firmly on the map for European aristocrats. Cala di Volpe’s unique exterior and interior design by Jacques Couëlle made it one of a kind, and everyone flocked here to spend relaxing days on one of Europe’s most picturesque shorelines.
Today, the bay is filled with superyachts anchoring directly in front of the hotel, while access is limited to the fortunate few who either score one of the 121 rooms and suites or manage to secure a reservation for dinner or an Aperitivo. I have to admit that this wasn’t my first stay at one of Italy’s top-tier hotels. My first visit was in 2016, so I decided it was time to return to Sardinia exactly ten years later. Back then, the hotel still had that old-school atmosphere and traditional design that so perfectly represented Jacques Couëlle’s vision. Unfortunately, much of its charm and patina seem to have been lost during the latest renovation by design studio Moinard Bétaille. It goes without saying that Cala di Volpe was already in desperate need of a refresh in 2016, but despite the amazing one-of-a-kind furniture and custom-made solutions, the new Cala di Volpe somehow lacks that welcoming and cosy feeling.
There is an entire array of front desk staff, and it was the first time I had been approached by three different members of the front office team while waiting in a hotel lobby. The small reception area, which simply isn’t large enough to handle check-ins for 121 rooms and suites simultaneously, means guests are offered a seat in the lobby while a staff member approaches to collect their documents and offers a bottle of water. Sitting there on what felt like a busy train station on that June Monday morning, I wasn’t quite sure whether the team had everything under control or whether I had simply been left somewhere in the system. Fortunately, after being asked by two other staff members whether we had already checked in, the lovely lady returned and informed us that she had completed the process. Since our room would only be ready at 3pm, she offered to show us around the property.
Having checked the online booking engine beforehand, I already knew that Cala di Volpe had been sold out the night before as well as throughout our stay, so I certainly wasn’t expecting an early check-in and had planned to head straight to the pool. After showing us around, we were encouraged to stay by the pool, which had also been our original plan. The lady was very dedicated and even tried to find us two empty sun loungers, but without success. Another member of the Pool Team apologized several times and explained that even the cabanas were occupied, so she offered to arrange a private boat transfer to the hotel’s beach. There is a scheduled beach transfer by boat at set times every 30 minutes, but because there were no available sun loungers at the pool, we were offered a private transfer at no additional cost. That was, without question, a lovely touch.
We spent a few hours on the secluded private beach and quickly realized that, apart from being located on another side of Porto Cervo, it wasn’t particularly different from the private beach at Hotel Cervo, where we had stayed in the days before. The beach beds were the same uncomfortable wooden loungers with only a thin top layer, while the changing facilities and toilets were very basic and not particularly inviting. Considering the extremely high prices charged for drinks and snacks, we found the beach experience rather disappointing and decided to leave after three hours.
Heading back to the hotel, we received a call at around 3pm informing us that our room was ready. Since we were still dressed in our beach attire, we stayed at the main pool for a little longer. This time, we were lucky enough to secure two sun loungers. The pool area, in contrast, had much more comfortable loungers and everything felt considerably more exclusive, just as you would expect from a hotel of this calibre. The recently renovated changing rooms came with luxurious shower facilities and Acqua di Parma toiletries, and everything fitted beautifully with the hotel’s new interior design. Service around the pool was also noticeably better. Despite the prices being the same as at the beach, drinks came with complimentary snacks and, importantly, proper glasses. If you are paying €150 for a bottle of entry-level Franciacorta, there should at least be proper glassware to go with it. The pool itself was not renovated and remains the enormous saltwater pool I remember from ten years ago. The pool towels, however, appeared brand new and were of heavenly quality.
At around 6pm, we finally headed towards our room, which had generously been upgraded from a Superior Room to a Premium Room. One thing I found particularly interesting is that there are two distinct room designs within Cala di Volpe. Rooms located above Matsuhisa have a more unique and individual style, while most rooms in the main building have a more contemporary Sardinian aesthetic. Our Premium Room came with a small entrance, followed by a bathroom with a classic layout. However, the designers decided to remove the bathtub in favour of a larger walk-in shower and converted the original shower area into a vanity desk. The toilet and bidet were separated from the main bathroom, while there was a single sink with storage space on both sides. Considering the room rates, I found it slightly disappointing that a vanity desk in a rather dark corner of the room was prioritized over a proper bathtub. At a hotel charging more than €2,000 per night, these details do matter. The main room itself was airy and filled with natural light. Built-in wardrobes with large wooden doors opened directly towards the bed, while a bar area featured a spacious minibar with an extensive selection of products, all available at an additional cost. There was a particularly chic Nespresso machine covered in leather, as was the tea maker, with six coffee capsules provided. What surprised me most, however, was the complete absence of a welcome letter or welcome amenity.
To this day, we are still waiting for a welcome note from the GM, a proper welcome gift, a fruit platter or even a few complimentary bottles of water. The only thing we received was a birthday cake during turndown service in anticipation of my friend’s birthday the following day, together with two bottles of water in paper cartons. So I guess guests here are welcome to pay, but not necessarily welcome in the traditional sense. I mean, why wouldn’t a hotel like Cala di Volpe offer San Pellegrino or local Sardinian water in glass bottles as a complimentary gesture? Sustainability is all well and good, but a paper carton in a hotel that charges €2,000-plus per night? I don’t know. And the absence of any welcome amenity certainly doesn’t create the best first impression. Take the French-based Airelles Group, for example, where guests can even receive hotel-branded merchandise as part of the welcome experience. These little gestures cost relatively little compared with the room rate, but they can make a substantial difference in how a guest feels upon arrival.
Generally, however, the room felt spacious, airy and bright, and I can’t complain about the interior design itself. The king-size bed was exceptionally comfortable and incredibly inviting. A large television was positioned opposite the bed, with storage underneath for suitcases. Next to the bed were two chairs and a coffee table, while a sideboard offered additional storage. In reality, I found the wardrobes spacious enough that the extra storage was hardly necessary. Premium Rooms come with their own terrace, and this is perhaps the true highlight of the room, although at these rates the bed should obviously be exceptional too. Our private loggia featured two dining chairs and a dining table, perfectly suited for room service breakfast, as well as an outdoor sofa for lounging. The natural design of a loggia makes it particularly enjoyable because it offers protection from both rain and direct sunlight.
Housekeeping, however, was average. While the entire property was exceptionally tidy and clean, we noticed housekeeping trolleys left in the hallways, and empty bottles of shampoo and shower gel were not replaced during turndown service. Overall, the staff fell rather short of going above and beyond. We didn’t have any particularly demanding requests, but apart from being friendly, we never really had the feeling of being genuinely welcomed. Some staff members also displayed the kind of attitude that can automatically come with working at such an iconic hotel. Of course, there were also wonderfully warm members of the team, so this is certainly not a judgement of everyone working here. Perhaps some were simply proud to be working at Cala di Volpe. But throughout our stay, we often felt more like a number in a large chain hotel than guests experiencing something truly unique in the world. There were no moments when staff remembered our names or room number. Most of the hotel’s guests seemed to be regulars, so I sincerely hope the experience changes once you return year after year. Perhaps Cala di Volpe is simply a hotel that rewards loyalty more than a first-time stay. But for a first-time guest paying this kind of rate, that shouldn’t necessarily be the case.
A must-do, everyone says, is Aperitivo at the Atrium Bar. While some guests were seated in the famous orange gallery, most hotel guests without a reservation were offered a table on the terrace, which was rather lovely as well. We enjoyed a few rounds of their world-famous Bellinis. The first round was complimentary as a welcome gift, I assume, which made me wonder whether this is what replaces a proper welcome amenity here. I have to admit, however, that the location is simply stunning. Not only is the sunset light magnificent, the views are one-of-a-kind, the people are wonderfully dressed and the entire setting is just spectacular. You really do feel as though you have stepped into a scene from a James Bond movie. I completely understand why Cala di Volpe has developed such a strong community of regular guests. There is something wonderfully nostalgic about the place, transporting you straight back to the glamour of the 1970s and 1980s.
People-watching here is genuinely entertaining. Guests arrive for dinner at Le Grand Restaurant or the newly added Beefbar, while some of the super-rich head towards their tenders after shopping in Porto Cervo, ready to return to their mega yachts. It is a fascinating little theatre of luxury, and Cala di Volpe remains one of the few places where this kind of scene still feels authentic. To enjoy the atmosphere a little longer, we decided to stay for dinner and headed to Matsuhisa at Cala di Volpe, allegedly the hotel’s most unique and best dining venue. Once again, the setting was simply outstanding, and the service was genuinely warm and friendly for once. Similar to the Munich outpost, however, I found the food underwhelming considering the high prices. In this case, though, I almost blame the spectacular view and gorgeous atmosphere for distracting from what was on the plate. You come here for the entire experience, and the setting is certainly part of it.
To my surprise, breakfast was still served at Cala di Volpe Barbecue, the hotel’s pool restaurant. Just as during my first stay in 2016, neither the buffet nor the interior design had changed in any meaningful way. It would have been nice to see a larger selection of à la carte options, although I have to say that both the breakfast buffet and the room service menu at Cala di Volpe were almost exactly the same as at Hotel Cervo, where we had stayed for almost half the price. The à la carte dishes were identical, although my Eggs Benedict were at least a little more beautifully presented at Cala di Volpe. The buffet itself was extensive, with good-quality products, once again very similar to Hotel Cervo. Because there were many families staying at the hotel, there were plenty of children, and the overall atmosphere felt more like a large resort than one of Europe’s finest luxury hotels. Breakfast also felt somewhat rushed, and we didn’t feel particularly inclined to linger once we had finished eating. There is a seating plan when you arrive, meaning you cannot simply choose any table, and breakfast finishes at 10:30 with no option for a late breakfast elsewhere in the hotel apart from your room. One positive point is that breakfast is included in all room rates, which at these prices is certainly how it should be.
So, yes, Cala di Volpe is a unique hotel and definitely worth visiting. It is the birthplace of Costa Smeralda, and you can genuinely feel the glamour of the good old days. Is it worth €2,000-plus per night? Considering the competition that has recently arrived in Porto Cervo, I would say that is difficult to justify. We also reviewed the new Cheval Blanc Pitrizza, and that is, in my opinion, a completely different experience. My personal recommendation would therefore be to do exactly what we did: stay for one night, fully enjoy the pool, the bar and dinner at Cala di Volpe, and perhaps spend the rest of your stay at the sister property, Hotel Cervo, while visiting Cala di Volpe for drinks. That way, you still experience the magic without committing your entire Sardinian budget to the name.
Unfortunately, all that fame and prominence increasingly attract a group of people that doesn’t necessarily fit with the original character of the hotel, and it has, to some extent, ruined the once-iconic sense of privacy Cala di Volpe was known for. Even though the hotel strictly limits day visitors and access is restricted to guests or those dining here, some guests themselves seem to forget the original idea and sense of place. And with that comes another problem: staff who sometimes appear overly proud of where they work, while the hotel itself risks losing the soul that once made it so unique. In the end, I feel you are paying for the name and the location rather than an exceptionally generous form of hospitality or genuinely outstanding service. For me, staying at Cala di Volpe ultimately felt like ticking off a bucket-list goal. I had seen it, experienced it and finally understood the fascination. And I admit it: no visit to Costa Smeralda is truly complete without seeing Cala di Volpe. Just don’t expect the legend to necessarily live up to every part of its reputation.
